This is Dave Johnson's ride. He has been working on it a few years now. He brought it to me Saturday, Nov. 13th to build a glass top. Well here is a series of progressive pictures on the top build up. Enjoy it.

The first thing you need to do is figure your materials. Figure the surface area. From that you can calculate the amount you may need from the amount I list that I used.
Sq Area=31.5' of the top approximately.
Times 3 layers = the amount of Matt I used. About $15 worth
I used 4.5 Gallons of Resin. About $90 worth.
4 sticks of 1/2 EMT conduit. about $12 worth.
1 gal of acetone $18. ( For paint brush cleaning and clean up).
Trim knife, clean, dry Milk jugs or 2 liter plastic pop bottles (to mix resin in).
Plastic for covering car ,$2.
MEKP catalyst $4 worth,(about 1/2 pint)

MIX RATIO: Up to 5% catalyst to resin in cooler ,humid temps. Down to .5% catalyst to resin in hotter, dryer conditions. Example : 3% is 3 milli liters catalyst to 100 milli liters of resin. 3% @ 78 degrees @ 60% humidity will gell in 10 to 14 minutes before the resin starts to harden. Or 3% @ 68 degrees @ 60% humidity will gell in 25 to 35 minutes. Once this starts disreguard the resin you have left and get your brush clean. Test some before you start to get a feel of your working conditions. Don't put trimmings and a half full resin container or in a pile. The exeothrem generation can be sevear enough to start a fire when the resin starts to set,
And 1 quart of Black Gel Coat, $11 worth ,to mix with the resin on the last layer of glass to give the top the Black canvas look.
The start
Investigate and Plan the job
Inspect mounting places
Look at it from all angles
List materials needed then, round up tools and begin checking every fit several times again and again
Manufacture the header above the Windshield to fit the stantions. Here I used 1" square tubing. Welded a nut in ,(off the car of course), once it is marked where the bolt will screw into the nut to lock down the top.
Form the frame in pieces making 2 of everything for the sides.
Looking it over, only tack welding to make it slightly rigid.
Viewing it, sighting it in so it looks porportionally right.
Top Release. There's plenty of these out there. Just safety belt latches. Best to use ones with metal covers. They are spring steel so don't try to drill them. If when the Top is finished you have a latch problem like its to tight, (as I did on one side when the seal strip was put on), you may have to use a die grinder to help the fit. If its to loose you may have to double up the seals.
Remember,Tack weld only.
Frame work nearing completion.
Forming the cap for the body. Tape a good thick plastic along the cap allowing overhang to prevent resin from driping on the body. It Eats Paint! ALWAYS WEAR A PARTICAL FILTER over your mouth and nose because you can't see the fibers floating in the air unless the sun is shining in the room just right. Then it will freak you out. You should not itch when working with it, unless you grind it. If you do have to grind it protect yourself good from the dust. Baby powder fills the pours of your skin, Gloves protect your hands, Goggles and safety glasses protect the eyes. Keep plenty of ventlation because the styrene fumes (same thing used in body plastic) will get very strong. Also panty hose lightly rubbed across the skin will pull the fibers off (static). If you do itch, well its cold shower time. Hot showers will open the pours and you will really itch. Some people are allergic to it so if in the first few minutes you see small pimples, or redness to the skin you may be too so get out of the fumes if this is the case.
I got these nice little clamps cheap (4 for $1) and they work well. Up to this point the cost is mainly time. Maybe $15 in materials. What you need is buy in bulk if you can when it comes to Resin and Matt. If not it will cost a little more. Don't buy quarts!
I use 1 1/2 oz. Chopped strand matt. Don't use cloth. Tare the edges where they over lap. And cut the edges that hang off the cap to fit it before any glass work has begun. Sissors work ok. But the Glass strands will dull them.
I lay 3 layers at a time. Let them cool. Then lay 3 more.
If you have not painted your car yet you can trim edges with a carpet knife right after the glass sets enough to trim before getting to hard. This will save a lot of grinding later.
Just enough glass to hold things together.
Insert the rear top bow supports you made.
Clamp them, spot weld them, WATCH OUT FOR FIRES AT ALL TIMES , then Glass them in place.

Here is where you remove the top and finish weld everything. While at it grind whatever you need to clean the outside edge.
Get ready to glass the top by covering everything with plastic. Put the Top frame back on.
Check the plastic for any place it may let resin get through.
Put the old sheet in place and stretch it as tight as within reason.
Clamp it Edge of cap and body. Sheet will be pulled under and cap clamped to body before laying up sides.
Pull it tight Add metal to acheive the shape in the cloth you desire. Here I found I needed a small piece to keep the material from sagging in the tight corners.
Once the Top is roughed in move the car to an area you are willing to clean up the edges by grinding. If you take your time you should not have to do this.
You can fold up the plastic and remove the top. Take it to a suitable area to grind in or leave it in place. I ended up with some resin in the latch but by putting the plastic down, then latching the top it did not get in the mechanism preventing me from removing the excess.
Here The edges are clean and The top is going back in place.
Once in place pull the sheet (it is still attached isn't it?) under the cap. With a piece of 1/2" EMT, (thinwall conduit. Same thing the frame is constructed with.) Roll up the excess sheet. Use clamps to hold it tight. Hook some cheap ratchett straps (tie downs) to the pipe. Do the same on the sides with pipe and clamps. use a C clamp to grip the EMT. Pull it snug across the top side to side. Then hook the other strap from the cap to the straps at the top. Work out the wrinkles in the back center ONLY. ONLY GLASS THE CENTER SECTION OF THE BACK between the upright supports for now. The corners have to be worked seperately. You will have to trim and shape them to what you dessire.
Inside View of pipe,clamps & straps.
It should look something like this when starting to glass the back.
It should look close to this finished. You do not have to color it at this stage if you are going to cover it with canvas or vinal.
Make sure not to get any resin or gel in the holes or on the bolts used to lock the top down.
It helps when laying up glass to have assistance if the tempeture is above 68 degrees. Even if its not above 68. Theres a lot of lay up time involved.
Last stage
After the Top is Blacked, remove the stickers with 80 grit on a sanding block.
I am waiting for Dave to see how he wants the back window opening cut. Just remember, If you want it bad enough and you don't have the money you can fix it your self. All it takes is research to find out how something is done! And sometimes a little talent.
Here is a shot taken at Beavers Bend state park at the Kiamichi Street Rods rod run this year.

Copyright 1999 Mike Tipton

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