How To Build A Fiberglass Body Mold

"PROJECT 32 FIBERGLASS MOLD"


04-09-2003


All Pictures and Information in this article are "Copyrighted by Mike Tipton 2001" but you may print any or all of this article only for your own use but is not to be Resold without the owners premission.

DISCLAMER: This material is for information purposes only. It is in no way to be intended by the aurthor/copyright owner to be complete and accurate. It is based only on the experience of the aurthor, information gained from products manufacturers, and/or other entities and can not assume any responsibility for any person or persons attempting to use products or methods that have been discribed in this site.


Materials:
* Resin amount depends on the size of the mold and number of layers planned on being applied. (I usd "Plastix 4331 Isopaltalic" which will work for both molds. It can be used for parts but it cost more than GP resin for parts).
* Tooling Gel Coat comes in various colors. Orange or Green (dark colors) are easier to see bubbles against under the fiberglass layers when laying up which makes it easier tosee and roll out the bubbles.
* Rollers come in an assortment of shapes and sizes.
* I save plastic milk jugs to mix resin in. It saves quite a bit of money. Have plenty on hand. Your friends, 3 or 4, will save them for you too and you will have plenty on hand before you know it. You will probably need to utilize them too!
* 2 or 3 Utility knives (box cutters)for triming off excess glass when curing.
* 1 or 2 rolls of 1 1/2 oz. Chopped Stran Mat (again how big is your project?).
* Modeling Clay for building flanges.
* Mold release, 2 or 3 cans. I use TR High Temp.
* Respirator, throw away clothes, Latex gloves, and lots of rags.
* Card board for the floors (unless you like cleaning them with a scraper).

I built a jig and mounted the body to it. Doors were checked for a square fit along with the trunk and removed. Do not move the jig after the parts are taken off. The alignment could change blowing the whole project before starting.

The Body has been guide coated and final sanded with 1500 grit. The body was cleaned with a good degreaser though you should not need it but why chance it. Then machine rubbed out and machine polished in every place possible.

Next, pick a spot and start waxing. I put on 15 coats with any where from 20 to 45 minutes between coats. Apply heavy coats. It takes several hours using the "TR HIGH TEMP" mold release I use. It is better to spread it out over a couple of days if possible. "Formula 5" will wipe on and off easier with 10 to 20 minutes between coats and only requiring 3 coats before spraying gel coat but I have had parts stick in the mold before and its NOT FUN getting them out! The same thing happens with the TR if it is removed before it has dryed and will also stick in this situation.


After the body has been waxed, lay out the flanges with the modeling clay. Some clays are better than others but the MODELING CLAY from the toy section of a store will work O.K. DO NOT USE PLAY-DO! Wax the flanges but do not wipe it off the clay. Use 2 small rag pads. One for the clay and one for the body.

Plug the Window openings with something. Masonite works best. I started with cardboard but had to change to masonite on the back window. Clay was used against the part of the body where the glass goes to minimize the chance of a "OVERDRAFT" that would cause the mold to not be removable once this part was made.

Look for any places that may prevent the section of mold, that you will be making, that may prevent it from coming off the body when you are finished. If you find a place that needs filling that you missed you may need to use clay for a filler, it will be ok. Just use good judgement in the amount you use. I used a paint stick to shape it with.


Optional Flange has been placed inside the wheel well to increase mold strength.
Flange around perimeter of the doors for mold strength and trim edge.
Flanges at rocker panels.
Stubs tack welded along the jig. Some may be removed in areas where not needed.
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